When evaluating or choosing a 150 W subwoofer (active or powered) by Kenwood or otherwise:
RMS vs Peak Power
RMS is what matters for sustained performance. Some units say 150 W peak, but RMS might be lower. Always check actual RMS rating.
Example: KSC‑SW11 often is described with 75 W RMS but 150 W peak. Keep expectations accordingly.
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Size & Fit
Depth, height, and whether it fits under seat or in trunk matter. Measure your intended location.
The slim models (SW11, PSW8) are made to fit in tighter spaces.
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Frequency Response & Low‑Pass Filter
How low the unit can go (e.g. 35 Hz) matters for “deep bass” feel. For car usage, anything around 35–40 Hz is good.
Check if there is a built‑in low‑pass crossover so you can adjust to match your speakers and reduce distortion. Many of these Kenwood subs offer this.
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Phase Control
Helps align the subwoofer with the rest of the speakers to avoid cancellations or “fuzzy” bass. Many Kenwood models include 0°/180° phase switching.
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Kenwood
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Input Types
RCA / line‑level input is ideal. But if your head unit lacks RCA preouts, speaker‑level input is useful.
Some units have “signal sensing” so they turn on when input is detected. Good for power saving.
Kenwood
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Build Quality & Housing
Enclosure material, woofer cone material, cooling etc affect durability. Aluminum die‑cast frames or strong enclosures help reduce distortion and heat.
Also mounting brackets, wiring harnesses, remote control adjustability are pluses.
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Power Supply & Electrical Load
Even though it's 150 W, current draw can be significant when playing loud / low frequency. Make sure your car battery, alternator, wiring (ground especially) is good enough.
Ensure fuse protection is correct.
